Eating Locally

seriouseats.com
Talon columnist Luiza Gundim offers her take on the June edition's Animal, Vegetable, Mineral theme.
in our home. Those range from leaving our shoes at the front door to completely
eliminating sugar from our diet. Most of them, however, relate to turning our
household more "green," which has consistently earned her the nickname "eco-
chata". Despite the jokes my brother and I make about it, her arguments are
usually valid.
Back in 2009, when we lived in Portugal, she was astonished by the
amount of food imported from Brazil. They were mainly tropical fruits such as
banana, mango, and papaya, but that upset her a lot. The reason being is that,
in order for the fruits to get across the Atlantic still fresh, they have to be air-
shipped. That, according to my mom, is a waste of energy and fuel, and therefore
bad for the environment. Her point is, then, that in Portugal we should consume
Portuguese products; in Brazil we should consume Brazilian products. We didn’t
even take her seriously: there is no such thing as a diet restricted to olive oil,
bad-quality oranges, and particularly, bacalhau.
Not until reading about Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life, did
I think carefully about my mom’s air-shipment theory. Barbara Kingsolver wrote
this non-fiction book detailing her family’s attempt to eat locally for a whole
year. They started a farm in Virginia and ate only the food they were able to
cultivate themselves. Also, they adjusted to feeding only on the nutriments found
locally in season.
Eating locally is beneficial to our communities in various ways. As claimed
by the New Economics Foundation in London, a dollar spent locally generates
twice as much income for the local economy. When money is not spent in
regional businesses and products, it leaves the community at every transaction.
Also, local cultivated products are fresher, giving a better taste to your food and
increasing its nutritional value. Because the availability of regional foods varies
according to the time of the year, they are more abundant and less expensive in
their peak season, therefore being favorable to the customer’s financial resources,
too.
according to the time of the year, they are more abundant and less expensive in
their peak season, therefore being favorable to the customer’s financial resources,
too.
In spite of the fact that organic foods are a popular choice for people who
want to adopt a healthier lifestyle, eating local products is still better for the
environment. Organic food has to travel thousands of miles to get to our plates,
having many ecological impacts that are greater than its benefits. Since local
foods travel much shorter distances, they are less susceptible to contamination
and they don’t cause pollution.
At an event called “Food Fight” in San Francisco, the guest speaker
Anuradha Mittal of the Oakland Institute used California as an example to
illustrate the controversy of the food industry:
• “20% of Californian table grapes are sent to China. China is the
world's largest producer of table grapes.
• Half of all processed tomatoes that California exports go to
Canada. At the same time, the U.S. imports $36 million of Canadian
processed tomatoes yearly.
• California exports Brussels sprouts to Canada and imports
Brussels sprouts from Belgium.
• $70,000 of California pistachios is sent to New York, then travels
by ship to Italy, while California imports $50,000 of pistachios
from Italy.
• The US imports $19 million of Canadian cherries a year, while
Canada is the second most important destination for California
cherries.”*
Although it would be hard to start a farm in the middle of São Paulo,
Kingsolver’s effort towards sustainable eating is well-founded. The ecological
impacts of growing food in factory farms, adding preservatives for it not to spoil,
and then transporting it are substantial. The food industry is geared towards
profit, not towards health and the environment. It is up to us, consumers, to
choose whether we want our food to come from miles away or from the farms
around the area. After all, the world is what we eat.
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